November 10, 2011

Replacement rear trailing arm bushings, 94-01

I just had the rear trailing arm bushings replaced in my 1996 LS sedan. The part number is 52385-SR3-000.

August 9, 2011

Removing the Integra distributor to replace the o-ring

There is an o-ring behind the distributor that prevents oil from leaking from the hole in the head of the engine. Here is a picture. The o-ring is the black ring up against the back of the distributor body.

Mine was in decent shape but still leaking. Here is how to change it:

  1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal
  2. Etch the outline of the upper distributor mounting flange so you can replace the distributor in the exact same spot
  3. Remove three 12mm bolts that hold the distributor in place
  4. Pull the distributor straight out without moving the shaft on the back
  5. Replace the o-ring
  6. Put it back together
  7. The back of the distributor has a shaft assembly you can see in the picture. This shaft must line up and mesh with the intake cam. If you look inside the hole in the head that the distributor covers you will see the "female" end of this shaft link.

    It may be easier to handle the distributor if you remove the spark plug wires and distributor cap.

July 7, 2011

SIDE JOB: Chevy Aveo lights not working

I happened upon a friend's car that was having electrical problems, and I can't resist an opportunity to solder some wires.

This troubleshooting guide was written about a 2005 Chevrolet Aveo. The Chevy Aveo is also the Pontiac Wave, Suzuki Swift and Daewoo Kalos. This problem may also affect 2002, 2003, 2004, 2006, 2007 and 2008 models.

SYMPTOMS

  • Speedometer/Instrument panel lights not working
  • Interior lights not working
  • Tail lights or brake lights not working

CAUSE

  • S101 Splicer pack overheats and burns wiring under the hood

Chevrolet Aveo hood compartment fuse box

HOW TO CHECK

  1. Open the hood and remove the fuse box cover
  2. Look into the fuse box at the splicer (use diagram at right, click for full size)
  3. Decide whether or not to take the fuse box apart, remove splicer and re-connect wires

There are no other steps. It is not possible to pull the wiring out and inspect the wires for signs of burning without removing and separating the whole fuse box. The top of the S101 may be burnt and discolored, and this would be 100% confirmation that you should follow the steps provided below.

WHAT THE DEALER WILL TELL YOU

The fuse box wiring and main engine wire harness are all the same part, and the dealership is good at replacing whole parts. The wire harness costs six or seven hundred dollars, and don't forget labor costs.

HOW TO TAKE IT APART

  1. Disconnect the battery (negative first), wrap the wire ends in rags, and cover the top of the battery terminals with a rag so none of your tools become conductors of its charge
  2. Remove the engine compartment fuse box cover and the 10mm nut on the fusebox ground wire in the bottom right hand corner
  3. Remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the fuse box in place in the engine bay
  4. Remove white and grey harness connector on the left side of the fuse box
  5. Break the splicer free from its perch in the fuse box (don't be shy, we're going to remove it completely)
  6. Separate the upper and lower halves of the fuse box while minding the electrical tape on the right side
  7. Remove the bottom of the fuse box and set it aside
  8. Twist the fuse box upside down so you can pull the splicer out from underneath and assess the situation

HOW TO FIX IT

The concept here is to remove the splicer and join the wires together with a soldering iron instead. The splicer exists to connect the 14 wires in 3 groups. Unfortunately, its design is prone to failure. The following diagram shows which wires to solder together using three colors. Click for full size.

Chevrolet Aveo Splicer

  1. Cut 7 wires off the row of the splicer that contains
    1. Green with yellow stripe
    2. Brown
    3. Green
    4. Brown
    5. Green with yellow stripe
    6. Brown
    7. Green with yellow stripe
  2. Solder all 7 of these wires together
  3. Cut 4 wires off the other side
    1. Purple with white stripe
    2. Brown with white stripe
    3. Brown with white stripe
    4. Brown with white stripe
  4. Solder all 4 of these wires together
  5. Cut the last 3 wires from the splicer
    1. Purple
    2. Purple
    3. Purple with white stripe
  6. Solder all 3 of these wires together
  7. Cover everything in electrical tape
  8. Put your car back together while connecting your battery last (positive first)

OPTIONAL STEPS

  1. Destroy the splicer
  2. Start car
  3. Use lights

If these instructions helped you fix your car's lights, I am glad I could help you and save a few hundred dollars in the process. If you want to buy me a beer, my paypal address is corey.salzano@gmail.com. Drive safely.

May 29, 2011

Integra DC hatch rear spoiler delete

What size are holes under the spoiler?
3/8", 3/8", 3/8", 7/16", 7/16"

Do you have more pictures?

March 22, 2011

Keys cut this morning, what a difference

I can't believe what a huge difference there is between the key I had been using and the new ones I got cut at Acura this morning.

March 21, 2011

Making some more progress on my tan-to-black interior swap

June 12, 2010

Integra carpet dyeing

Before

Photobucket

After

Instructions here

I used 6 bottles of dye

May 10, 2010

Integra carpet cleaning

Before

Photobucket

After

Photobucket

April 27, 2010

Torn axle boot

April 13, 2010

Repair Integra motor mounts with polyurethane

I bought a '96 sedan at the end of 2009. Among the various issues I need to address, all three of the vibration-absorbing rubber motor mounts are torn. I bought the front two new from Honda. After removing the rear mount, I decided that I would fill it with polyurethane instead of replacing it.

The first picture below is of the rear mount while I was cleaning it up in the sink. The other three photos are actually the front two mounts that I replaced. I filled the rear mount, and loose-bolted it in place on the car so that it would cure in the proper position. I want to know how hard it is going to be after it fully cures, so I filled the two front mounts last night.

  1. Clean the damaged motor mounts.
  2. Let the mounts dry. Prepare a workspace.
  3. Seal one side of a mount. I used Gorilla Tape to hold the wet polyurethane in place.
  4. Fill the motor mount with polyurethane, and let it cure for at least 8 days.
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